The Lost Track.
From Carraipia we decided to proceed to the Sierra de la Teta, and about noon on the following day sent off our loads in advance, being assured by our guide that it was impossible to mistake the route. Before proceeding we ourselves visited the river Carraipia, which lies twenty-five minutes from the collection of huts known by that name. About an hour later we proceeded on the trail of the donkeys, but after travelling until 7 p. m. and not having overtaken them we concluded that they had taken another route and were some distance behind. We were therefore obliged to spend the night on the open sabanas without dinner and without water to drink save brackish water, We laid down with our saddles for pillows, but the millions of mosquitos made sleep impossible, and their attentions were only varied by downpours of rain. At daybreak we set out, solden to the skin, with wet saddles and an inward emptiness, in search of our donkeys. At about 8 o'clock we reached a rancheria where we found they had passed the night, and galloping on their trail we shortly overtook them, when we breakfasted.
Toroira to Tucaraca.
We then proceeded to Toroira, a large rancheria which we reached early in the afternoon. Our guide lost no time in informing us that we could not proceed till mid-day in the morrow, as we had to replace a horse and obtain further donkeys. It had become apparent that a great mistake had been made in the purchase of donkeys for transport, and that it was quite impossible to continue the journey to Sierra de la Teta or to re- turn overland to Rio Hacha with the same animals. Consequently I decided to return to Rio Hacha via Tucaraca by sea. We therefore left Toroira about mid- day, and travelled throughout that afternoon through neavy clay land covered with Cactus and Opuntias. As
there was no pasture in this type of country we were obliged to continue until reaching a sabana, which we did at dusk. Before, however, we could erect our tent rain poured in torrents, and the ground within the tent became a mud pool where nine of us spent the night huddled together with saddles and boxes as best we could. In the morning we left for Tucaraca reaching there about 2 p. m., and the same night left in a cayuco for Rio Hacha, arriving there at 1 p. m. the next day.
Impressions of the First Journey in Goajira.
Arduous and difficult as our journey across the pen- insula proved to be, it was to me a journey of consider- able interest; for I feel convinced that here is a country which might, with the liberal assistance of the Govern ment in the way of communications, wells and irriga- tion, well become an important cattle country. The northwestern part along the Coast consists of sandy lands where grows the divi-divi tree (Caesalpinia cor- iaria, Willd), a tree which affords one of the principal exports of the country. This type of country alternates with heavy clay lands, where grows little but Cactus trees, the undergrowth being principally prickly Opun- tias.
Here and there are pantanos or swampy lands covered with various Leguminosae or aquatic plants In the centre of the peninsula are extensive sabanas. now (October) beautifully covered with fine short grass (Aristida setifolia, H. B. & K.) affording abundant and sweet pasture, but alas in the dry season almost desert lands. In the southeastern parts the character of the vegetation alters, and towards the mountains becontr more and more luxuriant, and gives evidence of a richer soil and more abundant rainfall. As we were nearing Carraipia. I was surprised to come across extensive areas covered with guinea grass. In fact. I first aske! the guide who possessed portreros in this region, as I observed gudsimo (Guozumo ulmifolio, D. C.) and hobo
Crossing a Caño In Goajira
10
trees (Spondias sp.) for shade, reminding one of the artificial portreros of Tolima. The grass, evidently at first imported by the Spaniards, has become naturally established over wide areas. In our journey from Carraipia towards the Sierra de la Teta, we passed through ten miles of guinea grass, naturally established portreros; but I am informed that there are extensions of eight leagues or more covered with this grass. There are therefore many thousands of hectares of nature- established pastures which are not at present utilized. When the packing-house propositions now under con- sideration mature, may not these regions become an im- portant feeding ground for such an establishment? Here are extensive areas of pasture ready for cattle ranching on a large scale, where it is not necessary to go through the costly process of felling forest to plant pastures, and where, on the sabanas, there are no ticks.
A Second Journey Through the Peninsula of Goajira. Disappointed with the result of the first journey in Goajira owing to bad transport organization, and im- pressed with the agricultural possibilities of the penin- sula, I determined to make a second journey direct from Rio Hacha, and if possible traverse the entire length of the peninsula before proceeding to the Province of Padilla. Owing to the existence in the interior parts of Goajira of hostile Indians, of whom there are armed gangs of bandits wandering on the main routes, who do not hesitate to attack, rob and even murder small par- ties; it is essential to travel armed and with suitable escort. I accordingly set to work to find an escort, and through the kind offices of Señores Dr. M. Alvarez I and General Agustin Beruier. I was introduced to Señor Colonel R. Morales, a gentleman well known to the Indians who very kindly offered to accompany me. We therefore set out for the second time on No- vember 1st, the party consisting of Señores Colonel Murales, Caballero (the owner of the transport ani- mals), Campo and Frailes (transport assistants), Rod- rigues (servant) and myself. All of us were, of course, mounted and armed; and we took four pack animals to convey our tent and equipment, taking good care to leave all the donkeys behind. On leaving Rio Hacha we were informed by the inhabitants that, owing to the exceptionally flooded state of the country, it was quite impossible to do this journey and that within a few days we should be seen back at Rio Hacha. Discousoling as these opinions were I was determined to make the Journey. We first had to cross the arm of the river Calancala at Rio Hacha in canoes, we then saddled and loaded our animals and started off towards the river Calancala, which we reached within an hour or so from Starting. Here we had to cross the loads in a canoe, my Companions first wading, then swimming and again wad- ing with the animals across the river to the other side: a distance including the flooded area of not less than three hundred metres. We landed on the opposite side at the Orphanage of the Capuchinos, San Antonio, and after a delay of two hours in crossing we resaddled and reloaded our horses and proceeded on our way. The Rev. Padre Camillo of San Antonio was even less consoling than the inhabitants of Rio Hacha, and in-
formed us that as no Indians had passed through for several days, the country must be impassable. After leaving the Orphanage we soon reached lagoons and flooded lands, and travelled through two and three feet of water, being only varied with short expanses of solden lands or heavy clay. At dusk we reached an Indian rancheria known as Guamachal where we camped the first night. Here lives an Indian lady known as Dionesia Duarte (Nicha) who is very wealthy, possess- ing about a thousand head of oxen, and a large number of horses, donkeys, sheep and goats. I was struck with the healthy and thriving condition of all the animals, with the exception of the goats which were suffering with foot-rot as the result of the wet condition of the lands.
The next morning we left Guamachal, the first part of this day's journey was through flooded clay lands of Cactus bash, but the latter part was through sandy lands covered with small spreading trees chiefly of the order Leguminosae. In certain parts I noted the dye- wood tree, known locally as Brasilete (Haematoɣriou brasileto, Krst). abundant. In the evening we reached a small roncherio known as Chimirang, and the Indians turned out their goats from a hut which they placed at our disposal. We had no sooner arranged our ham- mocks when, in the dusk, we were alarmed by the ap- pearance of a large snake which took possession of one of the hammocks. We were, however, fortunate in kill- ing it, but we passed the night rather uncomfortably thinking that our unwelcome visitor might have a com- panion in the vicinity.
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A Typical Indian of Gonjica
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